Charles James: Reflections

    

Charles James Ivory Silk Satin Ball Gown, 1951

       This past sunday I was finally able to visit the Charles James exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Titled, “Charles James: Beyond Fashion”, the exhibit is the latest installation of the Costume Institute and was divided into two sections. The portion of the exhibit found on the museum’s first floor focused entirely on the analytical extravagance of James’s ball gowns. Robotic, arm-like machines maneuvered about the dresses and displayed numerical projections of measurements, while a monitor at the foot of the dress would give facts on the specific dress and show just how James put together the gowns. The fifteen displays highlighted the mathematical and scientific approach James took when it came to designing his structural masterpieces. 

      

The famous "Clover Lead" ball gown, 1953

       The second section of the exhibit features James’s more Ready-to-Wear designs; jackets and less grandiose dresses, where the technique behind each piece’s fold, drape, cut, etc. was explored and then magnified on massive live-feed projections that displayed each garment’s back.

      

James would have copies of his gowns made in cheap fabrics to act as models in case he wanted to reconstruct a gown.

      Both exhibits convey the rare genius of Charles James; a designer who managed to synthesize the worlds of science and math with that of art and beauty, thus perfecting his extravagant creations. (As a side-note, if you plan on seeing the full exhibit be prepared for a bit of meandering about the museum, as it's not completely clear on how to reach one portion of the exhibit from another.)

      However, not knowing much about James what I found to be fascinating was the glimpse into the inner workings of his mind that the exhibit offered. James was a man who was constantly looking forward, preparing for his future endeavors, his death, and even his securing his work's place in history. 

       A small side gallery within the Ready-to-Wear portion of the exhibit houses some of James’s personal effects. From sketches and collages to newspaper clippings and letters; the private life of the late designer was revealed to me in glimpses, and I found it to have the same analytical tone which characterized his work. Neatly typed letters were written with James having planned for them to be read after his time. In one letter, he lists all those he wishes he could have worked with with a curt indication of why they were of interest to him. “Miss Audrey Hepburn”, James writes, “A wisp of iron”. 

“David Bowie. Androgynously beautiful”.

     

Charles James's letter detailing those he wished he could have worked with.

      In another letter, James addresses those who helped him further his career, as well as those who abandoned him, and those he thought had no place in the industry. In a gesture that lacked a bit of humility, James also typed down his various techniques and methods concerning his architectural approach to designing, knowing his work would be studied by future generations.

      With James’s thought process apparently being governed by his finely tuned foresight, it seemed almost ironic that the space his fifteen ball gowns were displayed in had walls lined with mirrors, objects of reflection. Each portion of mirrored wall featured a quote by James -- so, perhaps the mirrors were placed as reminders that while the great couturier strived towards the future, it’s important to reflect on the past to learn, and then to move forward. The lesson Charles James leaves behind is the balance between past and future, to be concerned with your future, but to not forget what values the past may offer. James said it best himself in a quote displayed on a mirrored wall:

"There is no GOING BACK. Study the past to know why, not what, and from the WHY, dream and DO. There is no shortcut to creation. There may also be no profit in it."

Additional Quotes:

Thanks for reading again this week, be sure to comment your opinions and thoughts if you saw the exhibit, or if maybe you plan on going to check it out now! Till next week,

Stay posh. Stay riotous.

- PR